The Rubber Conversion
Will Haines describes how to fit Ride R1 tyres to your F113 which might come in handy if they are being used as Control Tyres for an event. Although Ride R1's have been discontinued the process should work for other rubber tyres. The F113 is designed for foam tyres.
This is a very easy to mod to do, no engineering feats required, pictured below is my completed "RUBBERED VERSION" ready for action.
I used RIDE R1 tyres for the TAMIYA F104:
- RIDE 26022 F1 Front Wheels & Tyres F104 63mm High Grip (2)
- RIDE 26023 F1 Rear Wheels & Tyres F104 63mm High Grip (2)
The other required parts for the conversion are:
- 10x5x4 bearings to replace the factory kit ones, can be purchased at any HOBBY or BEARING SHOP
- 6mm Shrink Wrap tube (also called Heat Shrink and used for electrical insulation eg; when soldering plugs on wires). We'll use this for the rear wheels (remembering Shrink Wrap will shrink to ½ its size making it 3mm once shrunk). Any electronics store will stock a range of Shrink Wrap.
- Extra M5X7X0.5 COPPER SPACERS from NORTHERN BEACHES HOBBIES (I purchased all my F113 parts there). This purchase just makes it easier than finding one in your spares parts bin (in my parts bin I found a 1/8th clutch bearing washer 0.5 thick and so I used one of these and 2 copper spacers from Northern Beaches Hobbies).
Step 1 - Front
- Place the bearings into the rim firmly
- then place the rim on the axle
- then place 3x0.5mm copper spacers (pictured is 2x0.5 copper spacers and a 0.5 clutch bearing spacer for 1/8th off road clutches if you have one in your spares box). It's fine to use 3 of the M5X7X0.5 spacers)
- then tighten the wheel nut to just before the bearings start to bind with the spacer, keeping the rim spinning as freely as possible.
Below are the clearances with box kit fittings after fitting the Ride rim.
First part is now done and the track width is 200mm, this is legal in Australia, check with your local track or the powers that be in your area or country, some countries and F1 series only allow for 180mm, which is not achievable with the F113 until 3 RACING come out with their expected conversion kit.
Step 2 - Rear
On to the next step, the rear fitting of the RIDE F104 Rim.
Generally I have read that the TAMIYA F104 Rims fit straight on, this is true to a point. When I fitted the RIDE R1 rim to the rear of the F-113 I found that the rim would not completely centre properly when tightened it always seemed to go towards one side and would vibrate severely. So in the McGIVER way I had to come up with a solution. ‘’SHRINK WRAP’’ was the answer.
The process is simple:
- Cut 2 pieces of shrink wrap 3mm wide (maximum 4mm)
- Slide the first piece of shrink wrap over the axle making sure it is hard against the hex before shrinking (by applying heat - a match or cigarette lighter is perfect - apply heat for just a second until the tube shrinks to fit the axle)
- Repeat with the second piece over the first.
The rim fits perfectly on the axle now and centres nicely when the nut is tightened.
Testing and Setup
For testing I went to TFTR in Melbourne (outside Asphalt track - Winter). The day was cloudy with a slight wind and air temp was around 15 degrees C. This is on the cool side for the Ride R1's so fine tuning with setup was required.
First pack through and the F-113 was loose in the rear, (track was pretty dirty) and would push wide off power (R1's are known to push ie; understeer). So to the pit table for some changes I headed.
I continued to make small changes one at a time with each making the F-113 better to drive for my driving style.
At the end of four batteries I settled on the changes below (compared to the factory set up). No hop-up options were used as they haven’t arrived as yet. I’m happy with where it is and will give it a run at the next race meet.
- Ride height in the rear was set using the height adjusters in the kit, the 1.5 was used in the up position.
- The rear mono shock kept its factory oil at 350, factory spring and 3 hole piston (not having the option parts as yet) but I softened the spring adjuster nut to a gap of 3.5mm.
- The damper spring was too hard with the factory oils so softer is what I felt it needed so down to 65wt Team Associated shock oil was used.
To the front end I go, which I found to be very twitchy at high speed and pushing on power. So changes were:
- I proceeded to soften the front with the spring adjuster leaving factory oils and pistons in place ending with an adjustment gap of 0mm.
- Not having a set up station for 1/10th to get toe out the steering arm measurement is still set at 37mm (the factory setting). I changed my exponential on the radio controller to help slow its response to my input helping it greatly.
- Camber adjustment was set at -2 deg the measurement being 7mm.
- Full droop at the front was my final setting.
After these changes the F-113 was a lot better to drive on the Ride R1 tyres.
I am looking forward to the option parts arriving so that I can fine tune the setup still further.
BUT!!!!! Will I be able to get it better before I head to the new horse in my RC stable?
After a pleasurable and pretty successful first year and a half in the F1 on road class, playing around and driving the FGX F1, SADLY she has gone to a new home and the F-113 is standing in for now - briefly ...
I have pre-ordered the Serpent F110 F1 chassis which I'm really looking forward to. It should be here in the next week and I'll bring you a build report in due course.
I have been driving Serpent's off road vehicles for many years and have always found them to be well made and fantastic to drive!
A special thanks go to Walter and Jay at WALTER RC HOBBY CITY for the new Serpent F110 ride.
Review and build coming soon on this long awaited piece of machinery!